Wanderlust Diamond Cable Scarf

The cable also makes a great motif for an aran sweaters.

Requirements: 1/2" or 7/16" loom. My sample was made on a Leisure Arts loom. I think the Cindwood 7/16" gauge may be the closest match. The KB 28" loom is also 7/16".
Worsted weight [#4] yarn

Note 1: when working a wanderlust cable, the stitch replaced on a peg first will be the one that shows to outline the design.
Note 2: I like the edge of this scarf best if the first stitch of each row is slipped
Note 3: Use 2 yarn markers. One designates each moving stitch in the diamond pattern. Begin with them on the center two pegs. Move them every other row of the diamond pattern as directed.

THE HEMS
Cast on 32 in chain stitch from left to right
Knit 2, purl 1 for 12 rows. Working yarn is at right.
To work the second hem, finish the tucked rib columns and the wanderlust cable. Knit an additional 12 rows of k2, purl 1 ribbing and bind off using a chain stitched method.

THE TUCK RIB COLUMNS
Counting in from each edge, work tuck rib on pegs 3, 6, ,& 9. This may be done as you go or using the afterthought tuck rib method. Links to videos demonstrating both methods are given.

THE WANDERLUST CABLE
Row 1: knit across from right to left.
Row 2: knit across plus cross the 2 center stitches. Either left over right or right over left is fine but each time these two meet and cross, do it in the same direction. To cross: lift both from their pegs. Lengthen the stitches if needed to make the cross without strain. Replace each on the opposite peg from which it came. Each of these stitches is now creating the bottom point of the diamond. We'll gradually move them outward with 1x1 cables to outline the diamond.
Row 3: repeat Row 1
Row 4: repeat Row 2
Rows 5,7,9,11,13,15,17,19,21,23: knit across. There is no other action on the odd numbered rows.
Rows 6,8,10,12,14: knit across, stopping at each point where 2 stitches were crossed 2 rows below. Knit the outer stitch on the diamond and nearest stitch that's presently outside the diamond a little larger than usual to facilitate cabling. For row 6, the stitches involved will be the two center stitches plus one  stitch to both the left and right of them. Lift the two stitches. Cross the outer-most stitch on the diamond [or, on row 6, one of the diamond point stitches] with the stitch next to it that is outside the diamond. Place a stitch marker on the peg that receives the outward-moving stitch before replacing the stitch in its new position. Replace that stitch first. It is outlining the diamond. Finally, move the stitch that began on the peg outside of the diamond to the now empty peg that's inside the diamond. The second stitch to be positioned has now become part of the background fabric inside the diamond. If the stitches are loose on the pegs, tighten them up without making them tight enough to stress the pegs. After the last outward-moving cable cross, there will be 10 stitches inside the diamond.
Rows 16,18,20,22, 24: knit across, stopping at the point where 2 stitches were crossed 2 Rows below. Knit the outer stitch on the diamond and nearest stitch that's presently inside the diamond a little larger than usual to facilitate cabling. Lift the two stitches. Cross the outer-most stitch on the diamond with the stitch next to it that is inside the diamond. Place a stitch marker on the peg that receives the inward-moving stitch before replacing the stitch in its new position. Replace that stitch first. It is still outlining the diamond. Finally, move the stitch that began on the peg inside of the diamond to the now empty peg that's outside the diamond. The second stitch to be positioned has now become part of the background fabric outside the diamond. If the stitches are loose on the pegs, tighten them up without making them tight enough to stress the pegs. After the last inward-moving cable cross, the travellings stitches will be side by side.

Repeat rows 1-24 to the length desired. Using #4 yarn, each 24 row diamond adds about 4" of length.