The machines I refer to as Superba may also be labelled White, Singer, Pfaff or Phildar, depending on when and where they were sold. Parts for most models are interchangeable.  One exception is the "Suitcase Superbas". Mine is labeled  "Heimstricker". These beds have different bed dimensions and needles. The same brands also produced some bulky machines but the notes below apply to standard gauge machines.

Superbas have a lot in common with Passaps in that:

1. Most are true double bed machines. By this, I  mean that the second or "ribber" bed is identical to the "main" bed, both beds are affixed at the same angle and the two carriages have identical mechanical functions. The beds stay more permanently attached than a Japanese ribber/main bed combination but it is possible to disassemble them for maintenance and some Superbas were sold as single beds.

2. They are made in Europe

3. The needle spacing is 5mm. Tools may be shared but Passap tool prong lengths aren't the ideal for Superbas. I find I can make them work but some knitters find them very awkward.

4. The two beds have identical functions except for the electronics 

There are also differences:

1. Passaps have pushers, Superbas do not

2. Superbas need quite a bit of weight on the fabric to function well. Passaps  do not.

3. Hold position on Superbas is similar to the way it is done on Japanese machines while Passaps use the BX setting and lowered pushers

4. Superbas are easier to deep clean.

5. Superba beds are aluminum, Passaps are nylon bed sections on a steel frame.

6. Superbas were made in France, Passaps in Switzerland

Lubrication and Superbas:

I don't use the LPS silicone on mine as I don't find it persists well enough. I prefer Ballistol. Ballistol is a gun oil but not just any gun oil will do. This is the only one I have been pleased with. 

While restoring a Superba, our experience is that it takes a lot of lubricant  and that disgusting blackened oil may drip out during the process. We cover the floor beneath the machine with rags for a few weeks. The manual for the machine mentions oiling only very lightly but restoration is not routine maintenance.  If the machine needs restoration,  it's  been sitting and it's  OLD. Much of it is cast & machined aluminum.  Many parts are sluggish and the metal may have microscopic pitting from age. There may be some old hardened, oxidized lubricant in the works. One symptom of the need for lots of lubrication is random clunking and halting by a carriage that seems operational. Another is difficulty pushing the carriages.  A third is a very noisy machine. [Carriages are referred to as sleds in the manuals]. Gradually,  generously lubricating let's the oil work down into spots where you can't reach and metal moves against metal. That icky black oil is caused by oxidation getting cleaned out by the frequent oiling followed by use. It also may be cleaning out bits of antiquated, hardened oil and fiber debris. When the machine quiets down, stops exuding black drips and moves easily without sudden stops, resume a sparser lubrication schedule.